Creative spirits

Eyestylist exclusive: Michele Claseri, Roveri Eyewear

Eyestylist Exclusive – The concept of ‘the modern day gentleman’ is more prominent and notable in today’s world than ever before – in an era where everyone’s aesthetic, style and bank-balance is up for scrutiny via social media and with the invention of globally platformed reality TV shows, the word ‘gentleman’ and its connotations today strive far from their original aristocratic origins. Cue Roveri Eyewear – an independent brand that embodies the classic, reserved, vintage aspects of an original ‘gentleman’ whilst being in keeping with the consistently on-trend, bold and ambitious traits of ‘the modern day gentleman’ we admire today. Roveri uses quality materials combined with elegant, striking design to produce a line of eyewear with the finesse of the luxury cars the brand’s creator is inspired by.

The luxury automotive business is a niche sector to say the least – what first ignited your love for cars in general, or was it more of a lucrative business temptation? My passion for cars began when I was 14. In Italy, we all used to ride mopeds around town with groups of friends. When I got my first car at the age of 18, I started going to many different car shows and dreamt of more expensive, luxury cars. It’s when I moved to Turin in 2009 to attend a car design school founded by Giugiaro that I started to appreciate the art and science behind cars.

Roveri Eyewear: RV018

I’m definitely more of a design person rather than a mechanical one, and it was during those 3 years of school that really started getting interested in this new type of material called carbon fibre – widely used in racing cars manufacturing. Nowadays, we can see this material used in many different car brands for their top of the range models, but until just a few years ago, it was way too expensive and time-consuming to be used in the production of cars. After school, I was accepted at Ferrari in Maranello for a six-month internship. It was here that I started working with really expensive vehicles and cultivated a passion for cars that only a small percentage of people can afford.

Automotive car brands like Ferrari and aspects of that industry like F1 have been an inspiration and aesthetic for so many within the fashion industry – were you always interested in style and dressing well, or did that grow from its association with luxury cars? I was born in Northern Italy and I moved to California in 2015. I had always been inspired by hip-hop culture and eagerly followed the streetwear style movement – when I was in school people used to make fun of my skate shoes; no one in Italy knew what they were at the time.

I used to buy shoes and hoodies from stores across the U.S.A and have them shipped to me in Italy for many years, keeping on top of the new streetwear trends. I had never really paid attention to the classic Italian dress style since everybody used to wear the same ”fancy” clothes in the streets of Milan or Bergamo, cities famous for their fashion-conscious populations.

When I moved to California, my views on fashion were totally transformed. I now pay more attention to the Italian way of dressing; it is elegant, sophisticated and less mainstream – and it is not that common here in California. For me it’s not about the brand of the clothing or accessories I am wearing, but its more about the style I portray. On reflection – I suppose I was dressing like an American while living in Italy, and more like an Italian now that I’m in America!

Agave Beach, California: Roveri’s founder is currently living in this area

Watches are a staple in a gentleman’s wardrobe – they are symbolic of many things including style, taste and success – an accessory that has also been linked to sporting and one that has evolved alongside those sports. What made you aware that sunglasses were the next high-end gentleman’s product to fill a gap in the market? I had been following different eyewear brands, and I loved the idea that small and independent labels are beginning to dominate the high-end market of luxury eyewear. Most people think that luxury sunglasses are limited to ‘big name’ brands – without even knowing that there is another world out there for luxury eyewear. The niche luxury eyewear brands and their high-end manufacturers use premium materials such as titanium and gold; the same materials used for luxury watches. Nowadays luxury watchmakers like Audemars Piguet, Panerai, Richard Mille and others are adopting forged and machined carbon fibre for their watch cases, and I thought that this type of material could have a nice fit in the eyewear market.

So far some brands have used carbon fibre for their frames, but the carbon used is laminated on a mould and has the same ”fabric” effect as the carbon used in cars and boats. The new way of machining the carbon from a block ( the same method used by those luxury watch brands) is a totally different way to approach this high-tech material. The machining process is more intensive, expensive, and time-consuming, but it results in an end product – be it a watch or a glasses frame – with a totally different look that replicates the pattern of Italian marble.

Roveri Eyewear is the only brand offering eyewear with this new type of carbon fibre manufacturing; we intend to keep releasing new frames with different combinations of engineered, forged and machined carbon fibre paired with other high-tech materials such as beta titanium and gold.

Roveri Eyewear: a new concept – the CLM-7

Why was the decision made for Roveri as a brand  to market solely towards not just men but ‘gentlemen’ ? Would you say there is a gap in the market to equip the gentleman of today?  Yes, I think there is a huge gap between people who just follow trends, and those who go deeper and decide to buy and wear different brands outside the mass market. This is relevant for any type of purchase; from a car to a watch, from a leather jacket to a pair of sunglasses.

At Roveri we cater to people who don’t buy a pair of sunglasses simply because they see someone they follow on social media wearing them, but because they appreciate the workmanship, the diligent and thorough process of how our sunglasses are made, and value a pair of sunglasses just like they would value a nice car or an expensive watch. (more…)

Wearable art, created in isolation – Jen Nollaig

The Dublin-based designer shares her wearable art lockdown project, ‘Me, myself & eye’

Artist/designer Jen Nollaig developed a colourful collection of intriguing works centered around upcycling old eyewear frames, during the weeks of lockdown in March/April 2020. Nollaig has built a unique niche for herself in customised artworks, and has produced pieces for clients in the UK, NYC and Ireland.
“In lockdown, I needed to anchor my mind to something that made me feel at peace,” she explained,  “so I started to do what I love most and create.  For me this offers a way to escape; this is what this new collection is inspired by, a personal journey of escapism in isolation, an attempt to capture the current sentiment of the new days and feelings that I am experiencing.” Above: One of the new works: ‘Processing’ is created with layered cocktail sticks, hand painted and finished off with painted compressed polystyrene balls from an old bean bag.
‘Eyesolation’ – 1 by Jen Nollaig – worn by the artist

The works in the new series include ‘Eyesolation’ –  produced out of a deconstructed diamond belt Nollaig found in a charity shop and customised with ‘googley eyes’ fromher children’s craft box.

Jen Nollaig wearing ‘Adjustments have been made’

For ‘Adjustments have been made’ – the artist says she broke apart old eyewear frames to use as the base and layered crayons and colouring pencils on top.

Previous works by Nollaig with an Xmas ‘glitter’ and ‘bauble’ theme earned her the headline ‘Ireland’s most Christmassy woman’ (Irish Times in 2019). A custom design she created for a client in New York (@happyhappyphoenix) for the Afropunk Brooklyn festival brought the designer attention in WWD and Teen Vogue. Photographs by Jen Nollaig featuring the artist. Follow Jen Nollaig and hew new works on Instagram @jen_nollaig.

Daniel Liktor, neubau eyewear

The creative districts dotted around Europe as well as internationally are the most appreciated, curated and diverse locations for fashion, street culture and design – an eyewear brand inspired by such extraordinary places, seems to be no less. Daniel Liktor graduated University in his twenties and began working in bars, restaurants and pubs towards a career in the culinary industry. He then took an interest in cycling, which led him to product management in sports gear and edged him onto the path that would lead him into the fashion industry and the conception of a sustainable, urban spirited, lifestyle brand of eyewear named ‘neubau’.

How did the idea of ‘neubau’ – a brand of eyewear taking inspiration from creative districts and their inhabitants around the world, first come to light?  After Silhouette International took the decision to launch a new brand in 2014, part of the positioning process was to define a clear target group. As we wanted to focus on people with a certain mindset and use a place for the brand story, one came to the other. Austria, urban lifestyle, creativity and a name that can be pronounced all over the world led us to Vienna’s 7th district – named Neubau.

neubau eyewear: model Dominik in naturalPX – (colour stone grey matte)

Was alternative eyewear a gap in the market you have always seen in relation to your particularly creative social circle?   In all honesty no, not always. It was discovered and then developed out of a natural interest and curiosity I had in the area. I started to work with bicycles and other sports gear as product manager and had the chance to dive deeper into several industries, that are kind of linked to fashion. One day in 2014 I received an offer to meet up with the former CEO of Silhouette to talk about a project they were working on. We got along, shared the same ideas and vision, which was definitely linked to some gaps in the market we could see and 5 years later I must say, I definitely took the right decision to enter the eyewear industry.

Did ‘neubau’ always intend to supply sustainable eyewear (as opposed to solely high quality, artistically unique and stylish frames) ?  Yes, it was part of our DNA from day 1, as we had so many positive aspects at our fingertips, that stood out from the masses, like our local production in the centre of Europe, our waste-reducing production processes, and so on. After launching our sustainable plastic material naturalPX in early 2017 the story became more complete and more obvious to everyone.

Did sustainability organically manifest as an important factor due to the ‘urban’, ‘current’ and ‘stylish’ concept of the brand itself as well as its target market?  It absolutely did and does more than ever. Especially in times like today with all these relevant, popular and increasingly influential movements like Fridays for future, Plastic Patrol, just to name two out of many, awareness for the necessity of crucial behavioral changes towards a better future for our planet is rising. To me it is part of our culture.

neubau eyewear: cateye style Virginia

From the perspective of ‘point of sale’ – would you say many customers inquire about the sustainability of ‘neubau’? Is sustainability a prominent selling point that could make or break a sale?  Yes and no. To some the style itself is of more importance than the sustainable component, but those who do want a responsibly produced, sustainable product AND style don’t have to compromise any of those aspects with ‘neubau’. And that is great!

What would you say are the benefits and / or the disadvantages of using 3D printing in the manufacturing of your glasses? To start with the disadvantages, as there are only two that come to my mind, colouring is still very limited, as the process does not allow us to produce translucent plastics. The other is the high investment in machinery and competence to start production. As part of our philosophy is to produce our frames in-house, we had to learn this technique from scratch, which on the other side gave us the chance to re-think certain production processes, that are critical in 3D-printing, e.g. sealing the surfaces to avoid that colours from “bleeding out” or even fungi growing on your frame, and find our own solution for those challenges. In terms of design options, you can be very creative compared to other production techniques and very important to us, the production process produces almost zero waste. We just launched our new 3D-printed capsule collection “Côte du Soleil” produced out of 100% bio-based raw materials; our next step in becoming the most desirable, sustainable eyewear brand out there.

What inspires ‘neubau’ most in particular to either the people or the location of some of the creative districts you have mentioned like El Born in Barcelona or Shoreditch in London?  Both! Creative ideas and an open mindset mostly characterise the people living in those urban areas we like to refer to!

Is the inspiration ‘neubau’ derives from these special places and people used in just the aesthetic features of the range; colour, shape and so on or does it go further than that?  It goes further than that! We try to be as open-minded as possible, one of the characteristics that are typical for those places and its people we really admire. We hope it’s visible in our activities, our collaborations, our communication and last but not least, our products.

Bio-based and 3D printed – model Alain in special edition ‘Côte du Soleil’ by neubau

From reading ‘neubau’s’ Sustainability Guide, I gather the intentions of the brand’s sustainability and good ethics make special emphasis on future generations – what legacy will ‘neubau’ leave as one of a growing number of sustainable eyewear brands, that is different to the rest?  What we share with those of our competition who do care about sustainability too, is the mindset of supporting the environment. What goes beyond the others is our way to link the sustainable world to a certain style, as we believe sustainability can look and feel premium and up-to-date.

Just as ‘neubau’ eyewear beautifully dissects and draws inspiration from the most bustling creative capitals of our world – in the midst of a contagion, one of the most positive culminations of our isolation – where we are limited to little or no exploration, adventure or wandering, is that we have been forced to appreciate the beauty within our own localities and dwellings – some that were once hidden in plain sight. A brand as diverse and continually evolving as ‘neubau’ can be a source of both creative and non-creative inspiration for designers and consumers alike; creativity is an easily identifiable and relatable motif for us all – and that is what helps to set this brand apart from others. Interview by Victoria G. L. Brunton for Eyestylist.com. All rights reserved.

Conversations in lockdown: James Van Vossel

Thinking differently is what puts James Van Vossel apart in the field of eyewear. His work with Belgian label theo began in 2010, and has continued to flourish, alongside an ever expanding portfolio of innovative design products through very different disciplines. Most recently his work has included ‘Hollow’ for Modular Lighting Instruments (www.supermodular.com) and through the current lockdown – when not looking after the kids, he is working on ceramics, lighting concepts and tableware, from a studio style space in his workspace connected to his home.

Hollow by Modular Lighting Instruments: winner of an iF Design Award in 2020

From the theo collaboration, Van Vossel tells me how his work with eyewear continues to grow – always approaching the object “from a different angle”. He refers to one of the most distinctive enduring frames in his repertoire so far – James 6 (launched in 2012), a design which has an integrated ‘folded’ section which forms the nose piece of the design. From the front, the frame appears to have a missing piece. It’s a style that lives on in the theo collections, a reminder of the possibilities of bucking the trend, exploring alternatives, with an experimental ‘hands on’ process using moulds, modelling from life, far removed from what is more normal in eyewear production.

James 6 – first launched in 2012 by theo, worn by Wim, and still an eye-catcher in the collection

In Outlines, the line launched in 2018, James developed a concept based on prototypes crafted to scale – a mode of working that he prefers across disciplines where no predetermined outcome has been laid down. He produced a number of frame design studies in prototypes, giving a sense of the design and material and allowing him to see what works and what doesn’t.

Outlines for theo Sketch – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

“In the outline collection the radical and revolutionary step of starting with the shape of the lens was taken, allowing it to determine the further design of the glasses by extending the existing vocabulary of the lenses and allows them to continue into the frame”, he explains.

Outlines for theo Assembly – black and fluo pink

“In a natural way, the frame is then shaped and moulded around it as an outline, as a shadow image around the essence – the glass; thus creating an original tension between the frame and the shadow image.”

Current colorations in the Outlines collection at theo include signature brights, in combinations of black/fluo pink or the more demure black on black.

For more details about all James Van Vossel’s design work visit www.jamesvanvossel.com
For the eyewear collections, visit www.theo.be

Georgiana Boboc, Vintage Traffic

Eyestylist had the pleasure of meeting the delightful and enchanting Georgiana Boboc, one of the first pioneers in what we know now as the “social media influencing” industry, a connoisseur of all things fashion – particularly vintage and arguably one of the most genuine, talented and quirky individuals in the business today.

You are strong and confident in pulling off a plethora of colours and patterns in just one outfit – how do you choose what you wear, and why do you think you are drawn to such exuberant, vibrant materials and textiles? Fashion is ridiculous sometimes. It’s so hard to play with colours, I think you need to, or already be super open to wearing a rainbow and still feel comfortable about it and to own it. I’ve never worn something crazy to be the centre of attention – it’s because it puts me in a good mood; colours always do that for me – I was designed to wear them. Vintage is quite colourful actually; patterns, florals, geometrics – that’s why I’m so drawn to it. Most of my statement pieces are very bright.

Georgiana (above and top) in Demure sunglasses by Delalle

As Eyestylist is an accessories platform – what do you think the importance of accessories is in regards to your personal style / in the industry generally?  Oh my god – EVERYTHING – you can be super basic and just wear a white t-shirt, but as long as you have a sparkle of something; it could be a vintage bag that costs five euros, but it has a nice colour or nice details; brassware or buttons can be the focal point of a look. I have always been about details; matching my socks with the colour of my headband – I used to do crazier things in styling, but now I am a bit more chilled – I’m thirty two years old, I tried to introduce more black into my wardrobe but it’s SO hard.

When did this love-affair with colours and with fashion ignite for you – when did you become involved in the fashion industry? Just after I finished high-school, I lived in Romania so I didn’t have access to a lot of the fashion, but I was passionate about vintage before the craze of American bloggers – I started the Vintage Traffic blog in 2008; I was stuck in traffic, on the way to class – to my degree in Journalism, so it was an outlet to me; it was about women, society, models, the idea of ‘perfection’ and what is demanded of women in general – not just about fashion.

Georgiana : Paris is home

Given Vintage Traffic began as a more general fashion news / societal awareness blog – what is your stance on the drive towards sustainability in the fashion industry? I have noticed one of the biggest agencies in Paris – one that manages and organises the fashion shows for top brands has taken action towards sustainability this Fashion Week; they are reducing the plastic / paper waste of the shows they are running – I think that is amazing. It is essentially the overproduction of useless stuff that is temporary, they don’t mean anything to anyone, and they don’t help much, we are just realising that. I am still receiving envelopes from brands, paper invitations, that is so bad. I am conscious of it; I haven’t bought something new in such a long time – what I wear for Fashion Week, I wear for my daily life. Honestly, I don’t like being the same as everybody else so that’s another reason why I‘m saying NO to fast retailing. I love a Victorian dress with an oversized blazer – mixing antiquity with a flash of modernity, a touch of masculinity with a pinch of femininity, adding something androgynous to it – that’s just my style. If I got married again, I would wear a tuxedo.

Would you be more inclined to purchase from a brand that was higher quality / more expensive but 100% sustainable and ethical?  Yes of course if I was going to purchase an investment piece – that would be a contributing factor. I am vintage addicted, so I don’t put a lot of money into new clothes –but I see and understand the need for new sustainable brands, buying, wearing and selling vintage is a passion. It doesn’t pay – that is why you really need to be passionate about it, I never follow trends, but vintage always comes back – for example, I went through a phase some years ago of collecting the fannypack / bumbag… vintage Moschino, Sonia Rykiel, Kenzo etc… I was constantly criticised for wearing them, and now you see all the top brands reintroducing them and they have become a streetwear trend.”

Georgiana wears DeVour by Delalle – a 1970s infused octagonal frame

You’re very selective about the new brands you purchase or wear and showcase to your following – we have noticed you wearing ‘Delalle’ eyewear – do you remember what drew you to that brand or what you liked about them? I don’t remember if I discovered the brand in an agency or in a showroom or if they had reached out to me personally from the beginning, but anyway, I just love the designs, they’re so powerful, they are WOW! It’s the eyewear that stands out from the crowd. I couldn’t say no to them, they are so funky and cool.”

As our interview came to a close, we discussed Georgiana’s next potential career moves and future developments across a wide array of industries – cinema, costume design, vintage selling, antiquities and many more – after a difficult year this superwoman has truly come out on top and I look forward to our next interview – who knows in what industry that will be, but I wish her every success in whatever path she chooses to take. Interview by Victoria G. L. Brunton in Paris – exclusively for Eyestylist.com – find Delalle sunglasses at www.de-lalle.com