Creative spirits

All in the Family with Austrian Creators

1st November 2012 The spectacular beauty of the Austrian Tyrol region, and a fascination with classic cars, has produced one of the more unusual – and successful collaborations in eyewear. A chat with any member of the Rolf team usually begins with how beautiful the weather/scenery/trees/snow is in their area. Rolf founders – Roland Wolf, his partner Marija Lljazovic, Marija’s brother Martin, and Christian Wolf (above photo, left to right) – draw upon nature’s mountainous bounty and beauty to create their eyewear. I’ve had the pleasure to chat with Christian on various occasions, and most recently, with Christian’s brother Bernhard, who is Sales Director, during SILMO. Bernhard reiterated how the Tyrol area has influenced their work. “Our parents are natives of this region, and our love of the land is the foundation for our frame creations, with trees and stone enabling us to realise our dream of perfect natural eyewear,” says Bernhard.

Rolf Spectacles burst onto the eyewear scene in 2009 with beautiful wood frames sourced from the Tyrol – and immediately they won a Silmo d’Or, and again in 2010. They won two Red Dot Awards (2010 and 2012); they received the Eyewear of the Year Award in Japan this year; and last month, Rolf Spectacles were the Gold winners in the Hall of Frames/Eyestylist.com Newcomer Awards. Very impressive for a three year old company! The other driving force for Rolf Spectacles is old cars – because decades ago, cars were made by hand. “Nowadays, only a few car companies build cars by hand – this happens everywhere  – also in the optical business,” says Christian, “however, at Rolf, everything is made by hand, and crafting just one pair of glasses requires hours of handwork, and a high degree of craftsmanship. The sanding stages require lots of concentration and precision.

“At Rolf, we are always searching for new materials that correspond with the company’s philosophy of using natural sources. One of our challenges was to try a material that was not yet used in eyewear. So stone is the perfect addition to our wood and bamboo frames, since stone also offers unique characteristics.” Rolf Spectacles adhere to the fine traditions of classic crafting and detailing precision, and these qualities are realised in each innovative design in natural materials. www.rolf-spectacles.com JG

Family Business with Individualist Approach

1st September 2012 Anticipation about visiting Antwerp was high – I’d heard many good reports about the city. But what really tweaked my curiosity was visiting the dynamically creative eyewear company, theo, based in the city recognised for its port history, and more recently, its avant-garde approach to fashion, art and culture. Communications director Miet Vaes was the perfect tour guide, escorting me not only through theo’s illustrious story, but also showing me some of the city’s highlights.

The theo tale began in 1989 when opticians Wim Somers and Patrick Hoet designed their first eyewear collection. “From the beginning, the concept was that design comes first,” says Miet, “along with the need to find a factory that can make frames to our standard of high quality – our requirements go beyond ordinary eyewear. Our frames are made in the Jura region of France in specialised factories.” The theo building hums with activity spread over three floors, with a brightly coloured interior – each floor is painted a different colour – plus a roof terrace. Located in a charming area of Antwerp, dotted with vintage clothing boutiques and antique shops, plus restaurants and galleries, it is in this creative hub that designing, marketing and sales takes place. The atmosphere is convivial and harmonious – during the winter months, employees play table tennis during lunchtime. Miet says that Wim’s “rules” includes “wearing suits is not allowed in the office.”  Theo creates not only unique frames, but forges working relationships with employees who are very loyal – several employees have been with theo for over twenty years.

Wim Somers oversees the family business – ideas are put forth from Wim’s wife and sons – who are all involved. (top photo, left to right: Mik Somers (Sales) Jamme Cardoen, Wim’s wife (Administration Optiek Boutique Antwerp) Wim Somers (Big Boss theo) Jan Somers (commercial side of theo-Optiek shop) Toon Somers (Marketing). No doubt the wellspring of imaginative creativity, coupled with the unified team spirit, has catapulted theo to the top of the eyewear world – theo frames are sold in over fifty countries, and wearers include Bill Gates, among many other high profile fans.

Belgium/European designers also bring their innovations to theo – including Tim Van Steerbergen, James Van Vossel, Christoph Broich and Serge Bracké, who have all created eyewear for the company. Theo also encourages young talent, and works with students at the prestigious Fashion Academy in Antwerp.

Always on the cutting edge of eyewear with imaginative designs, the latest theo collection is called Fruit-O-licious- with deliciously exotic names – MelOn, LemOn, COcOnut, MangO and AbricOt. Two acetate colours are combined to create an illusion that one frame was made by assembling two frames. Technology, fashion, creativity and ingenuity unite harmoniously at theo, celebrating their third decade of eyewear innovation. Coming soon on eyestylist.com – more exciting theo news! www.theo.be JG

Artisan Excellence – Derome Brenner

1st August 2012 Xavier Derome bounds into the Blois train station, and the first thing I notice are his sunglasses — quietly distinctive, effortlessly luxurious and exuding confident quality. Blois is situated in the Loire Valley – that sumptuous region of France with its beautiful river and amazing chateaux. This area is Derome’s professional and personal territory – he was raised here, and many family members live here too – close to the historical, magical chateaux, and where Derome creates his own spell with beautifully crafted eyewear.

We drive by one of the most famous Chateau – Chambord – and as I’ve never been, Xavier graciously stops so we can have coffee in the garden, while admiring the extravagant architectural dream of King François 1. What inspires you, I ask Xavier? He looks up from his coffee and surveys the magnificence around him. “All of this,” he responds, gesturing to the beauty of the green forest, the open spaces, the superb chateau, the Loire River. “I was born in this region; it’s in my blood.”

Studying history at La Sorbonne didn’t really prepare Derome for the eyewear world. However, his father was involved in the production of frames, and this is where the seeds for his future career were sown. “What I really wanted to do was go live in Vietnam, to move away from France.” However, he believes in fate, and began to become interested in eyewear. “But I knew,” says Xavier, “that if I wanted to do this, it would be a long road to design eyewear, and I needed the skills. I learnt production at the ‘grass roots’ and the new technology. Eyewear production is still very special, and I developed a fondess for acetate, because with acetate, I could make jewellery too.”

We move onto Derome’s production facilities in the small village of Bracieux, and Flo Flo, Xavier’s adorable little miniature dachshund, greets us with enthusiastic barking. When all ten employees of Derome Brenner are at work, the factory is a beehive of activity. “I love machines and all this fascinates me,” says Derome, “and these Italian machines are able to do many processes, which are all intricate.” Derome Brenner frames are acclaimed for their exceptional craftsmanship, and the distinctive multiple layering of acetate that gives the impression of volume, without ever being heavy. The acetate is polished in special tumblers filled with wood chips, and Xavier savours holding each piece in his hands to observe the polishing process. No detail is overlooked; as a result, quantities are very small. “We keep no stock, and many frames are made to order. Everything is finished by hand – there are over 60 different steps. Only hand finishing can produce superior quality,” notes Derome, “and this requires concentration and good eyes.”

Xavier’s concentration, determination, creativity, passion and perseverance won him a SILMO d’OR in 2009, and his frames are sold worldwide. Recently, he lanched jewellery, which has met with great success. “I’ve carved a nice in the market,” says Derome, “and I have my own production plant; I can travel; I love my work; I love my job.” And eyewear fans across the globe love his beautiful frames. www.deromebrenner.com JG

ic! berlin – Designer’s Universe

1st July 2012 Ralph Anderl is the creative force behind the international brand ic! berlin. With his unbridled enthusiasm and ‘tour de force’ approach to life, I’ve always found his desire to experiment, explore and push barriers an exciting part of his personality, and his avant-garde designs. Perpetually on the move, Eyestylist was able to track him down, and he shares his concepts on eyewear and design.

“We had an idea for ic! berlin – a vision – and when we started, we had no clue. So we learned, we improved, made mistakes, and learned some more. Finally, we are a company with approximately one hundred employees, a Monday morning choir, and our own production in Berlin. As a company, we are growing, getting bigger and  bigger, better and better. We might lose it all and close the company, if the world was to go under this year.  Who knows? Normally companies also die like human beings. Nothing is forever……how wise……

Your design philosophy? “Our design philosophy is simplicity and function. Fashion is out of fashion. It is about quality and the soul of the product – no cheap stuff. I’d love to work in sheet metal and acetate. I’d also like to work with cookies and ice cream – we tried…but it was very difficult……Also, the fact that human beings have just two eyes is very restrictive when designing eyewear – to be honest…..

What or who inspires your designs? “Jan Kleihues, one of the most important German architects inspires me a lot with his buildings, humour, and lifestyle. And the drawings I make inspire me. Our next collection will include designs from a picture I drew in 1989! Designing eyewear is a day by day challenge. You have to be very fresh and ‘munter’, strong, super intelligent, tall and brave to do that. I feel that responsibility day and night. Also for peace in the world and for animals, plants and the air – yes, I believe in the United States and Italy!”

ic! berlin launched the new rough. collection featuring 5 acetate frames and 3 colours in June 2012.

www.ic-berlin.de JG